Coffee-Cardamon Pots de Creme
After cruising the voluptuous sea of Champagne bubbles and hanging around mermaids for a few days (medically speaking i’m referring to hangover hallucinations) i took the ‘caffeine expressway’ back to reality thanks to a delicious recipe by my old boss Daniel Boulud. Recipe you can find in Cafe Boulud Cookbook.
The inspiration for these pots de creme comes from middle eastern countries where coffee is drunk through a cardamon pod held in one’s teeth. Cardamon has a sharp, round flavor almost citrusy and very erotic, i mean aromatic. Combined with coffee it goes all like ‘babboom’ followed by a ‘bang’ and stuff… ya know what i mean? What’s interesting here is the technique. The best way to extract flavor from cardamon pods and coffee beans is to cook the crushed pods and beans with sugar until the sugar caramelizes. The caramelized sugar mixture is then cooked with milk and cream and finally mixed with egg yolks. The finished product tastes like ummm…sorry there aren’t any adjectives to describe it, you’ll have to try it for yourself.
These really do pack quite a caffeine punch so if you develop a sudden urge to run around the block, climb up a tree or headbutt your doorman don’t blame me, i did warn you! Serve along with a light, crisp cookie for a nice juxtaposition of textures and you’re in heaven, these pots are pure silk!
- 3 ounces (1 cup) coffee beans, preferably an espresso roast
- 2 tablespoons cardamom pods
- 3/4 cup sugar
- 2 cups (approximately) heavy cream
- 1 cup whole milk
- 7 large egg yolks
1. Put the coffee beans and cardamom pods in the work bowl of a food processor and pulse on and off several times to roughly chop – not grind – them. Turn the chopped beans and pods into a medium saucepan and add 1/2 cup of the sugar. Put the pan over medium heat and cook, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until the sugar starts to melt. Patience – this will take a few minutes. Once the sugar has melted, continue to cook, still stirring without stop, until the sugar caramelizes – you want the color of the caramel to be deep, almost mahogany. Now, standing away from the stove so you don’t get splattered, slowly pour in the milk and 1 cup of the cream and all of the milk. Don’t panic – the caramel will immediately seize and harden – it will all smooth out as the liquids warm and the sugar melts again. Bring the mixture to a boil and, when the sugar has melted and everything is smooth again, pull the pan from the heat. Cover the pan (we do this with plastic wrap at the Café to get a good seal) and allow the mixture to infuse for 20 minutes.
2. Center a rack in the oven and preheat the oven to 300 degrees F.
3. Working in a bowl that’s large enough to hold all the ingredients, whisk the yolks and remaining 1/4 cup sugar together until the mixture is pale and thick. Strain the coffee-cardamom liquid into a measuring cup (discard the beans and pods) and add enough heavy cream to bring the liquid up to 2 cups. Very gradually and very gently – you don’t want to create air bubbles – whisk the liquid into the egg mixture; skim off the top foam, if there is any.
4. Arrange six 4-ounce espresso or custard cups in a small roasting pan, leaving an even amount of space between them, and fill each cup nearly to the top with the custard mixture. Carefully slide the pan into the oven; then, using a pitcher, fill the roasting pan with enough hot water to come halfway up the sides of the espresso cups. Cover the pan with plastic wrap (don’t worry – it can stand the heat) and poke two holes in two diagonally opposite corners. Bake the custards for 40 minutes, or until the edges darken ever so slightly and the custards are set but still jiggle a little in the center when you shake them gently.
5. Remove the pan from the oven and let the custards sit in the water bath for 10 minutes. Lift the cups out of the water and cool the custards in the refrigerator. (The pots de crème can be prepared a day ahead and stored in the refrigerator; when they are cool, cover them with plastic wrap.) To Serve: The pots de crème are at their best at room temperature, so remove them from the refrigerator and keep them on the counter for about 20 minutes before serving.