‘Foie-Gras Chawanmushi’ or How to Cook Japanese when you’re French and Dyslexic
No, no… i didn’t sneeze! A Chawan is a traditional Japanese cup in which this savory custard is steamed. As for the mushi … err.. well, i don’t know what mushi stands for, but it rhymes with sushi – that i’m sure! Hope that helps you, little songbirds.
This is an absolutely scandalous version of Chawanmushi because the addition of foie-gras is well – not very Japanese, isn’t it? It’s an invention of Iron-chef Morimoto, who should be renamed Mori-wicked for coming up with dishes like these. This is decadent hedonism in a cup my friends, take a deep breath and get ready to enter the zone…
This wachashimu… shi.. shichawamu.. i mean.. cha.. Chawanmushi is beyond luxurious and requires a little bit of Zen in the making because it cannot (and shouldn’t) be rushed. It’s your lucky day because i am Zenchef, the incarnation of calm and serenity [!], and i will guide you through the process of making this chihuahua without loosing your sanity or worse… your mojo’.
You are safe with me my friends.
Let me deconstruct this shimuwancha for you. It’s made of the following components:
- Shanton Broth
- Foie gras
- Eggs
- Dashi-Mirin sauce
- Roasted Duck
- A touch of grated wasabi
The Shanton broth is a rich meat stock made from beef, pork and chicken bones. Some dried longans, citrus peel and peppercorns are added halfway through the cooking time to give it a light sweetness. It’s then blended with fresh foie gras, a few eggs and here you have it.. a Foie-Gras milkshake! Don’t drink that stuff without putting yourself on life support first. Actually no, don’t drink it. The idea is to have a batter that’s the opposite of a milkshake in texture. No bubbles allowed. Think smooth, not foamy.
The Foie-Gras custard is then poured in a chawan, ramekin or whatever you want except your Grandma’s china (think small portions because it’s so rich) and it’s covered and steamed in a bain-marie until lightly set.
A sauce made from sweetened sake (mirin), dashi, light soy sauce and thickened with a little bit of cornstarch is poured over the top. The wamuchashi is then garnished with thin slices of roasted duck, chives and a touch of grated wasabi and enjoyed immediately.
Don’t forget that the simple and elegant presentation of this dish enhances the pleasure of your guests. A small detail, the lacquered wooden spoon is perfect for enjoying the silky texture of the custard.
The consultation is over. You can put your clothes back on.
Itada Kimasu!
Foie Gras Chawanmushi
(makes 4 to 6 servings)
Recipe adapted from Morimoto: The New Art of Japanese Cooking
For the shanton broth:
-
1 lb fresh ham, cut into chunks
-
1 lb chicken thighs, cut into chunks
-
1 lb pork neck bones
-
1 ln beef shin
-
2 teaspoons dried longans
-
2 pieces dried citrus skin
-
8 black peppercorns
For the dashi:
- 1 piece dashi Kombu, 4 by 6 inches
- 4 cups filtered water
- 1/2 cup packed bonito flakes
For the Chawanmushi:
- 2 cups Shanton broth
- 8 ounces fresh foie gras, at room temp’
- salt and freshly ground white pepper
- 4 large eggs
- 1 cup Dashi
- 2 tablespoons mirin
- 2 tablespoons light-colored soy sauce
- 1 tablespoon cornstarch in 1 tablespoon water
- 1 teaspoon grated fresh wasabi
- 1 teaspoon finely minced chives
For the shanton broth:
- Bring a stockpot of water to a boil. Have a large bowl of ice water nearby.
- Add the ham an cook until the water comes back to a boil. Transfer the ham to the ice water to cool down immediately. Repeat this operation with the chicken, pork bones and beef shin. This step removes blood and excess fat from the meat and helps create a clear stock.
- Rinse the meat in a colander, place in a clean stockpot and add fresh water to cover by 1 inch. Bring to a boil, skimming any foam that rises to the top. Simmer for 2 hours.
- Add the longan, citrus peel and peppercorns and continue simmering for 2 hours longer. Strain the stock and reserve.
For the dashi:
- The night before, or a few hour before making dashi, soak the piece of kombu in the filtered water. When ready to proceed, bring water to a simmer over medium heat. When it reaches a boil, remove from the heat and add the bonito flakes. Let stand until the bonito flakes sink to the bottom of the saucepan, about 15 minutes. Strain the dashi through a sieve and reserve.
For the Chawanmushi:
- Preheat the oven to 350’F.
- Place the Shanton broth and foie gras in a blender. Add a large pinch of salt and white pepper. Blend for about 20 seconds, until smooth. Add the eggs, one at the time and pulse briefly after each addition. The eggs should be thoroughly combined without creating a great deal of foam; do not overprocess.
- Strain the foie-gras custard through a fine mesh sieve into a medium bowl. Ladle the custard into four to six custard cups. Place them in a baking pan and add enough hot water to reach halfway up the cups. Cover the baking pan tightly with aluminum foil (or if using Chawan cups, put the lid on).
- Bake the custards for 12 to 15 minutes, until they are set in the center.
- While the custards are baking, make the sauce. Combine the Dashi, mirin, and soy sauce in a small saucepan. Bring to a simmer. Whisk the dissolved cornstarch and bring to a boil, whisking until thickened. Remove from the heat.
- Carefully remove each custard cup from the water bath. Place on a serving plate, spoon 1 or 2 tablespoons of sauce over each custard and sprinkle grated wasabi and minced chives. Serve immediately.