Pork Belly Buns
My pork belly buns are better than Momofuku’s! Here i said it. You may want to unleash the dogs now and let them eat me alive but first give me a chance to explain.
I had the pork buns at Momofuku and while i thought they were very delicious, i left thinking they could be improved upon. Since i’m not one to throw a bold statement without backing it up with some tangible arguments, i will now try to convert you to my pork buns. So hold on tight to those leashes. Grrr..
I start by sending my pork belly to a spa-treatment, also known as a spice-cure. It takes 48 hours. David Chang doesn’t do the 48-hours spa treatment and uses a 10-hours basic cure instead. He’s busy. I have all freakin’ week! That step doesn’t require much prep on your side beside toasting and grinding some spices with salt and rubbing it onto the meat. I demonstrated this method a few month ago when we did Forage & Feast. After slow-braising it for 3 hours you end up with a piece of spiced fresh bacon that is moist, perfectly seasoned with hints of Chinese five-spice and with enough complexity to make you gaga. Make sure to choose pieces of pork belly thick enough to stand-up to the cure (2-inches thick), otherwise cure it for only one day.
While the pork belly is braising you have plenty of time to make the steamed buns and if you don’t want to go through this hassle you can purchase them from Chinatown, just steam them and they’re ready to go. I heard Momofuku outsource the buns from Chinatown as well because they sell so many pork buns they have a hard time keeping up with the production. And why not, they’re just as good. If you want to make your own for fun just follow the recipe for steamed buns below.
After braising the pork belly is cooled and refrigerated until cold. When you’re ready to eat all you have to do is slice fairly thick chunks of belly and then grill the suckers. That’s where they turn into melting caramelized porky goodness which plays really well against the cool hoisin sauce. Take a moment to imagine what that does to your tastebuds. Pork buns are traditionally served with cucumbers and scallions but i like some cilantro in there as well. Oh, and a sprinkle of Fleur de Sel because i just can’t help being French.
So which are better? Let the battle begin!
You may unleash the dogs now.
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Pork Belly Buns
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- Serves 8
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For the spice-cured pork belly:
- 3 whole star anise
- 2 cinnamon sticks
- 4 teaspoons black peppercorns
- 2 teaspoons coriander seeds
- 1 teaspoon fennel seeds
- 1/2 teaspoon whole cloves
- 1/2 cup coarse sea salt
- 2 tablespoons sugar
- 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
- 3 pounds boneless pork belly (2-inches thick chunks)
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For the aromatic broth:
- 2 celery stalks, chopped
- 1 large carrot, chopped
- 1 large onion, chopped
- 1 bouquet garni (thyme, bay leaves, rosemary, parsley stems)
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For the buns:
- 2 teaspoons active dry yeast
- 1 1/3 cup warm water (about 110’F)
- 3 tablespoons lard, melted
- 2 cups all-purpose flour
- 3 cups bread flour
- 1 teaspoon salt
- 1/4 cup sugar
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To assemble:
- 1 cup hoisin sauce
- 1 cucumber, peeled and sliced
- 3 scallions, sliced
- Cilantro
- fleur de sel (optional)
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For the spice-cured pork belly:
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- Put the star anise, cinnamon sticks, peppercorns, coriander, fennel seeds, and cloves in a skillet and toast until fragrant. Crush the spices in a spice grinder or mortar and pestle. Stir the spices with the salt, sugar, and garlic.
- Rub the spice mixture on both sides. Put in a baking pan. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 48 hours.
- Scrap off the spice mixture from the pork belly and run it under cold water until clean.
- Put the belly in a deep stockpot along with the celery, the carrot, the onion and the bouquet garni. Cover with cold water and bring to a boil.
- Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for 3 hours, skimming off the fat that rises to the surface. The belly is done when fork-tender. Keep in cooking liquid until cool. Refrigerate (preferably overnight).
- In a bowl, mix together yeast, water, and lard. Let it sit 5 minutes.
- In the bowl of a mixer combine the flours, salt, and sugar. Add the yeast mixture and mix with the dough hook until the dough comes together, about 5 minutes. Put the dough in a large bowl (oil it first) and cover with a wet towel. Let it rise in a warm place until doubled in size, about 1 1/2 hour.
- Turn the dough into about 20 to 25 golf ball size balls. Place on a tray, cover with the towel and let it rise for 30 minutes more.
- Press the balls flat to make 4-inches wide rounds. Brush each rounds with oil and fold in half and place each one on individual piece of parchment paper. Let it rise again for 20 minutes (cover).
- When ready to eat, set up a steamer over boiling water and place buns in the basket. Steam for 7 to 8 minutes (in batches), until puffed.
- When ready to eat cut thick slices of cold pork belly and grill over high heat until it softens and begins to caramelize on the outside.
- Open a steamed bun and spoon some hoisin sauce, add cucumbers, scallions and cilantro and a piece of grilled pork belly. Sprinkle with fleur de sel. Repeat. Enjoy!
For the aromatic broth:
For the steamed buns:
Finishing:
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