Warm White Asparagus with Sauce Gribiche
White asparagus is simply good old green asparagus that has been covered with soil to keep sunlight (and green chlorophyll-producing photosynthesis) away from the ripening spears. It’s in the ground they develop their unique delicate flavor. The spears are then harvested before their tips break through the surface. The farmers must keep a close watch on the white asparagus crop, which is typically harvested by hand at dawn. If the tip of a shoot grows beyond the mound and is exposed to the sun, it will turn a light purple color.
I’ve never had good local white asparagus, which are usually thin and quite stringy, but I was lucky to find the Argenteuil white asparagus, a renowned French heirloom which are much thicker, tender and delicious. Germany, Austria, Belgium and the Netherland also produce excellent varieties and can be found in good markets in the US from mid-april to may.
You don’t want to mask the delicate flavor of white asparagus so it’s usually served warm with either a simple vinaigrette, a rich mousseline sauce, or a sauce gribiche which is essentially a broken vinaigrette enriched with chopped hard boiled eggs, cornichons, capers and herbs. Note that white asparagus must be peeled and it takes about twice the time to blanch them than regular asparagus.
The season is only a few weeks long so now is the time. Go and look for them.
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White Asparagus with Sauce Gribiche
- Serves 4
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For the white asparagus with sauce gribiche:
- 16 thick white asparagus (from Europe)
- 1 large egg
- 2 teaspoons dijon mustard
- 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
- 1 tablespoon lemon juice
- 1 small shallot, finely chopped
- 3 or 4 cornichons, coarsely chopped
- 1 tablespoon capers, drained and coarsely chopped
- 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
- 1/4 cup mixed fresh herbs (parsley, chervil, chives, tarragon), chopped
- salt and freshly ground black pepper
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For the white asparagus with sauce gribiche:
- Place the egg in a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Boil for 10 minutes. Cool in cold running water. Remove the shell. Separate the white from the yolk and chop both finely.
- Meanwhile, place a large pot of water (or an asparagus steamer) over high heat and bring to a boil. Salt the water.
- Peel the asparagus and attach them in the bundle with kitchen string (optional) and blanch them in boiling water until tender. (If using an asparagus steamer, fill only half with water, place the asparagus in the basket and place the lid on. The asparagus tips will steam while the stems get blanched.) The cooking time varies depending on thickness but they take longer to cook than regular asparagus. Use the tip of a small knife to test doneness.
- Place the mustard, red wine vinegar, lemon juice, shallot, cornichons, capers, chopped egg in a bowl and whisk in the olive oil. Season with salt and pepper to taste and add the chopped herbs at the last moment.
- Serve the warm asparagus with the sauce gribiche on the side.
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