Pastilla, Bastilla, Bisteeya, B’stilla, Bstilla… or whatever the heck you want to call it.
Err.. I couldn’t make up my mind on which spelling to use for this memorable Moroccan dish that combines the flavors and textures of savory meat, soft eggs, crunchy pastry and sweet spices. Though the traditional dish is usually made with squab or pigeon meat, in the US you’re likely to see chicken substituted instead which also works great. So are we ready to take a little trip down to Morocco together? Let’s go!
So much of the success of pastilla depends on Ras el hanout, a popular blend of herbs and spices that is used across North Africa. The name means “top of the shop” in Arabic, and refers to a mixture of the best spices a seller has to offer. There are many different sorts of Ras el hanout, but whatever you do i recommend you make your own for this dish rather than to buy it at the grocery store. I compared my own to several purchased ones and i can tell you there’s a world of difference. If you want a dish with vibrant, exotic flavors, make your own, friends!
The other important thing to remember about pastilla is that it’s traditionally made with feuilles de brick (also known as warka dough). I’m lucky to have a friend who brought some back from Montreal last week and i just couldn’t wait to play with it. Feuilles de brick look and feel like fine, lacy cloth with a satiny sheen and texture. When fried they are crisper than springroll pastry and when baked they have a dry, melt-in the-mouth crunchiness, which is better than filo. You could of course use filo in this recipe, lots of people do, but feuilles de brick are well worth looking for in Middle Eastern markets or you can order them via amazon website.
The pigeon (or chicken) is braised in an aromatic broth with onions, ras al hanout, saffron until it falls of the bone. The spiced braising liquid is then reduced and a few eggs are scrambled in it and left to cool. Meanwhile, almonds are toasted and ground with sugar and cinnamon, the shredded meat is mixed with fresh coriander, parsley and lemon juice.
The rest is pretty easy, the ingredients are layered inside the feuilles de brick to form neat little packages. You start with the almond/cinnamon mixture at the bottom, top with shredded aromatic meat and herbs, then goes the spiced egg scramble and finish with some more of the ground almond mix.
Keep the little packages nice and tight, and cook them on both sides in clarified butter until golden brown. If you never worked with feuilles de brick you will be amazed at how crispy and delicious the dough gets. Side-effects include urges to wrap anything in it and deep-frying it.
Drain the pastilla on paper towels and let them to cool for a little while. When they’re just warm, sprinkle with powdered sugar and cinnamon (yes, it’s the traditional way to do it).
The least traditional thing about this post, i just realized, is serving them with a fork and a knife. What was i thinking!? Those babies are best eaten with bare fingers to best absorb the sequence of taste, the harmony of textures and the.. the.. cacophony of smells!
Go ahead, get your fingers dirty and enjoy!
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Pastilla, Bastilla, Bisteeya, B’stilla, Bstilla
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- Serve 6
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For the ras el hanout:
- 1/2 teaspoon aniseed
- 1 teaspoon fennel seeds
- 8 allspice berries
- seeds from 8 cardamom pods
- 8 cloves
- 1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns
- 1 stick cinnamon, broken in half
- 1 tablespoon sesame seeds
- 1 teaspoon coriander seeds
- 1/2 teaspoon cuminseed
- a pinch dried red pepper flakes
- a pinch ground mace
- 1 tablespoon ground ginger
- 1 teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg
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For the almond/cinnamon sugar:
- 3/4 cup blanched whole marcona almonds, toasted
- 3 tablespoons sugar
- 1 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
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For the filling:
- 3 squabs (pigeons) or 4 chicken legs
- 3 tablespoons olive oil
- 1/4 teaspoon saffron threads
- 1 onion, chopped
- 2 garlic cloves, chopped
- 2 teaspoons ras el hanout
- 1 teaspoon ground ginger
- 1 teaspoon salt
- 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
- 1 1/2 cups chicken stock
- 4 large eggs, beaten lightly
- 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley leaves
- 4 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander
- 1 lemon, juiced
- 12 sheets feuilles de brick, or filo
- 1 stick butter
- confectioners’ sugar & cinnamon
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For the ras el hanout:
- Place the aniseed, fennel seeds, allspice berries, cardamom seeds, cloves, peppercorns, cinnamon stick, sesame seeds, coriander seeds, cuminseed, and red pepper flakes in a small saute pan and place over medium heat until fragrant. Let it cool and ground in a coffee grinder. Stir together ground spice mixture, mace, ginger, and nutmeg until combined.
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For the almond/cinnamon sugar:
- Place the almonds, sugar and cinnamon in a food processor and grind to a powder.
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For the filling:
- Season the squabs parts (or chicken parts) with salt and pepper. Heat a large kettle saute pan, heat the olive oil and cook until golden brown. Add the chopped onion and garlic and keep cooking until translucent. Reduce the heat and add ground ginger and ras el hanout. Cook for a few more minutes, stirring occasionally.
- Add the chicken stock and saffron and bring to a simmer. Cover and lower the heat and keep simmering for 35 minutes. Turn off the heat and let it cool. Transfer the squab or chicken to a tray to let it cool. When cool enough to handle, shred the meat and discard bones and skin.
- Reduce the braising liquid until you have about 1 1/2 cup left. With the pan over high heat, add the eggs to the reduced braising liquid and scramble. Transfer the spiced scrambled eggs to a bowl and let it cool.
- In another bowl, stir the chicken, parsley, coriander, lemon juice and season to taste if necessary. Chill until ready to use.
- In a large nonstick pan melt butter.
- Cut the feuilles de brick (or filo) into 9 inches circles and brush with butter. Place two sheets (or 4 if using filo) in a 6-inches tart ring or mold.
- Sprinkle almond sugar on the bottom of the dough (see pictures above). Put chicken mixture over almond sugar and spread out tightly. Top with the spiced scramble eggs and top with 1 more tablespoon almond sugar.
- Close the bastillas tighly to make neat little packages.
- Cook the bastillas in butter in the nonstick saute pan until golden brown on both sides. Finish in a 350’F oven if making a large one.
- Place the cooked bastillas on a plate lined with paper towels. Sprinkle with powdered sugar and cinnamon. Serve warm.
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